The original Italian name of this pasta is polio alia scarpariello, which might be translated as chicken in the shoemaker style. The name probably derives from the fact that the chicken in the dish is cooked on the bone, which means that as you’re eating the dish, you occasionally have to move your hand to your mouth, to withdraw an inedible fragment. When this action is performed repeatedly, it recalls a shoemaker at work, moving his hand from the shoe that’s overturned between his knees to his lips, where he holds three or four nails for ready use.