Now seasoned with parsley, the lightly smoked, Italian sausage known as mortadella was originally seasoned with myrtle, a Mediterranean shrub whose pungent leaves taste somewhat like rosemary. Myrtle, in fact, is the source of the sausage’s name, which derives from the Latin word for myrtle, myrtus (further back, the Latin myrtus derived from a Semitic source meaning bitter, a source that also gave rise to the word myrrh). From myrtus the ancient Romans formed the adjective myrtatus, meaning seasoned with myrtle, which was then used elliptically as a name for sausages seasoned in this manner. In Italian, the Latin name of the sausage was combined with the diminutive suffix ella to form murtatella, which evolved into mortadella before being adopted by English in the early seventeenth century. The earlier history of the word myrtle—or rather of the Latin myrtus—is unknown, but the shrub itself has been incorporated into many myths and superstitions. For instance, the ancient Romans believed that the tiny spots evident on myrtle leaves were the result of Phaedra wistfully puncturing a leaf with her hairpin while waiting under a myrtle tree for her tantalizing stepson. Less erotic and more pragmatic was the ancient Jewish belief that eating myrtle leaves confers the power to detect witches, a belief not so different from our modern conviction that carrots bestow good eyesight, and that fish are “brain food.”
Prepare to savor the delights of Italy’s culinary heritage—a grand creation known as Bologna sausage. Hailing from the city of Bologna itself, this majestic sausage captivates the taste buds with its harmonious blend of finely ground pork, beef, and luscious pork fat. Adorned with the delicate notes of coriander and white wine, and occasionally graced by the presence of pistachio nuts, this exquisite amalgamation of flavors takes form. The meticulously crafted mixture is lovingly encased within casings, then gently infused with the allure of smoke. However, it is important to note that the American rendition of this esteemed sausage typically forgoes the smoking process, resulting in a variation that often lacks the depth of flavor and irresistible texture present in the original masterpiece.