Soupy beans are a staple at Mexican tables; the cooking liquid thickens slightly from the beans’ starches and the dish is as satisfying as any rich stew. One such iteration, known as drunken beans, cooks pinto beans in beer or tequila, which lends subtle, complex flavor to the pot. To make sure the alcohol didn’t make our beans boozy or bitter, we added tequila at the beginning of cooking (evaporating it to mellow its flavor) and beer partway through (so that its malty notes would be present in the finished dish). Brining the beans ensured they stayed tender, creamy, and intact. Sautéing onion, garlic, and poblano chiles in rendered bacon fat created a flavorful base, and we reserved the crisp bacon to sprinkle on at the end. Cilantro leaves are a classic garnish for drunken beans, and we decided to use the aromatic stems to add more flavor to the cooking liquid. A vigorous simmer to finish jostled the beans, causing them to release starches that gave the cooking liquid pleasant body. You’ll get fewer blowouts if you soak the beans overnight, but if you’re pressed for time, you can quick-salt-soak your beans: In step 1, bring the salt, water, and beans to a boil in the Dutch oven. Remove the pot from the heat, cover, and let sit for 1 hour. Drain and rinse the beans and proceed with step 2. Serve with rice.
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