During the height of the first financial crisis in Greece, Greeks used to say, not altogether in jest, that “at least we have olives.” Olives, one of nature’s greatest superfoods, have always been an integral part of the Greek table. Ironically, with the exception of breads and sauces to which olives might be added, there are very few traditional Greek recipes calling for olives. Mostly, olives are just there, ever present on the table during every meal of the day. They are also the country’s number one agricultural export. This recipe is one of the few in which olives are featured prominently. Pan-fried or pan-grilled olives are a popular quick meze in many parts of Greece where table olives are cultivated.
Of all the table olive varieties in Greece, the ones called “raisin olives,” which mature on the tree until they are wrinkled but still retain their meaty texture, are best for this dish. Wrinkled black olives are generally less salty than brined olives, and the oiliness inherent in their flesh makes them most suitable for sautéing.