Salsify doesn’t look like the most promising of roots. In fact, it resembles kindling for a fire – all dusty, thin, straggly and hairy – rather than something worth cooking and eating. But, peeled and then boiled, sautéed or roasted, salsify adds great flavour and texture to a meal. It’s like a cross between mild celeriac and Jerusalem artichoke, with a touch of oyster minerality. I’m thinking skate or ray wing, brown butter-doused sole or trout, or something a bit different to go with roast chicken or beef; not least because the gremolata (a dry mix of lemon zest, parsley and garlic) really brings vibrancy and freshness to the party.
Prepare the salsify one at a time, as they discolour very quickly. You won’t want too many pieces per person, if in polite company: salsify shares more than just the flavour characteristics of the aforementioned roots.
Ingredients
- 1 lemon juice
- 650 g salsify
- 45 g butter
- 2 celery sticks, finely diced
- 250 ml dry white wine
- 300 ml vegetable stock (good-quality instant bouillon is fine)
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Leaves from 6 stems flat-leaf parsley
- 1 small garlic clove, crushed
- 1 finely grated lemon zest
- Fill a large bowl with cold water and add the lemon juice. Peel the first stick of salsify with a vegetable peeler, cut it into 5–6 cm batons and drop it immediately into the lemon-water bowl. Repeat with the rest of the salsify.
- Make the gremolata by chopping the parsley as finely as you can almost to dust. Add the garlic and lemon zest, stir well and set aside.
- Melt 10 g butter in a wide, high-sided frying pan or saucepan over a medium heat. Add the celery and cook for 2–3 minutes, or until softened. Increase the heat, and when the pan is really hot add the wine and reduce it by a third, then add the vegetable stock. Drain the salsify batons and add them to the pan. Bring to a simmer and cook for around 8 minutes, until tender.
- When the salsify seems ready, pour out two thirds of the cooking liquid (reserve it to use in a gravy). Add the remaining butter and return the pan to the heat, stirring until the liquids have emulsified and the salsify is glossy. Stir in three quarters of the gremolata and season with a little salt and a good few grinds of the pepper mill. Transfer to a serving dish or individual plates, spooning the juices over the top and sprinkling with the last bits of gremolata.