Salsify doesn’t look like the most promising of roots. In fact, it resembles kindling for a fire – all dusty, thin, straggly and hairy – rather than something worth cooking and eating. But, peeled and then boiled, sautéed or roasted, salsify adds great flavour and texture to a meal. It’s like a cross between mild celeriac and Jerusalem artichoke, with a touch of oyster minerality. I’m thinking skate or ray wing, brown butter-doused sole or trout, or something a bit different to go with roast chicken or beef; not least because the gremolata (a dry mix of lemon zest, parsley and garlic) really brings vibrancy and freshness to the party.
Prepare the salsify one at a time, as they discolour very quickly. You won’t want too many pieces per person, if in polite company: salsify shares more than just the flavour characteristics of the aforementioned roots.